Starter, battery, alternator many questions – toyota rav4 forums under kitchen sink plumbing

When I turned my key in the ignition I would get a single click, coming from somewhere closer to the driver side in the back of the engine. I thought battery, starter, alternator, or wiring issue. Lights would dim when key was clicked, indicating that it was not a solenoid connection malfunction in the starter, took the starter out and tested it, the starter worked perfectly. Kitchen sink assembly diagram replaced the battery and the car began running immediately….

Until a few days ago (it’s been maybe 2 weeks since the last no-start with a single click occurred) when I try to turn on my car and I get that same single click as before. By this point i’m befuddled but I figure it must be the alternator (just in case, I plug my batter up to a charger so that I can determine if it’s very low) so I pop out the alternator and put a new one in and voila it works again.

Today I went and tested the old alternator at oreilly’s and the paper work I got back told me that the alternator was in good condition and running correctly. What I’m assuming now is wiring but i’ve never done wiring and want to hear y’all’s opinion. The car is working but i’m worried it’s gonna die again and I want to keep that from happening if at all possible.

Thanks much for the checklist. After taking my car to the autozone to try to find the grounds (which they said they couldn’t do and would appreciate some help learning how to do) the customer rep came outside to take a look at my battery. THE TERMINALS WERE LOOSE ON THE BATTERY. How to install a kitchen sink drain pipe looks like I either tightened them too much last time I put them on or the lead has just warped over time. The customer rep told me to fix that before I fixed anything else because that could be the source of any of my potential issues.

The alternator was the original. From what I can remember (I already replaced it) it said toyota on it and the whole sticker indicating part number, etc. Was so old that it was mostly unreadable. Even if that wasn’t my primary issue, the new alternator should now last me the rest of the life of the car. For closures sake and to answer the rest of your questions; the charging light never came on. I did not dissassemble the old alternator but I should have to learn. Cost to replace kitchen sink and faucet next time. The battery is new as it was the first thing I replaced that fixed my problem.

I call my pop after the exchange with the autoparts customer rep, he is furious that that was not the first thing I checked or fixed. To be honest, I did not know that the connection was not tight, that it needed to be tight, or that the tips of the U-shaped battery terminal were warped. I went home yesterday and this is what we did. My moen kitchen faucet is leaking at the base first, disconnected the negative ground. My dad explained to me that buying new terminals could be a solution but that there was an easier way and then told me about how those terminals were made out of lead, which is a fairly pliable metal. We loosened the bolts on the pos and neg terminal and then using a screw driver placed that in between the touching parts of the u and rotated the screw driver to space it out again. Then we gave the terminal a few good hits towards the base of the U to get it closer to it original shape. Finally, used a terminal cleaning tool to make the battery pegs and pos and neg terminal shiny and clean of any corrosion and put them back on.

The positive and negative wires are still free-moving after tightening up the terminals, so we inspect the bolts connecting the terminals to the wires. Kitchen sink restaurant greenville sc the bolts were installed improperly on the terminals. Instead of bolt, terminal, nut. They were connected bolt, nut, terminal, leaving the wire to giggle and spin on the terminal. No bueno. Disconnect terminals, clean off any corrosion, re-install terminal to wires correctly.

You’ll notice that the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the body nearby (chassis ground). The frame, the chassis, and the engine are all ground paths. But where the wires/cables are bolted to these grounds, the bolts and wires can get corroded, especially if you live somewhere with salt water or high humidity (rust). The corrosion interrupts the flow of electricity, just like it does when you find it on your battery terminals.

For clarity, when I say battery terminals, I mean the ends (terminals) of the red and black cables that connect or disconnect from the battery posts (the battery posts are the soft lead things on top of the battery, that are part of the battery itself). It is true that the battery posts are sometimes called terminals, as you father said, but here I am calling the lead parts posts and the cable connector ends terminals.

Here’s an example of someone testing engine grounds with a test light. A test light is just a light that illuminates when electricity flows through it: if the light does not illuminate, it means that there is something interrupting the flow of electricity (or, opening the circuit; and open circuit means NO flow and the light is OFF; a closed circuit means good flow and the light is ON). How to fix a kitchen sink drain seal in the video (skip to about the mid-part), you’ll see that the test light’s circuit is closed and the light illuminated when he touches it to the chassis ground (the other side is connected to the battery positive).