The madden 19 ultimate team guide – game informer

Polishing off Solo challenges is the easiest way to make coins, but if you want to take a break from playing or just want to augment your stack, go to the auction house. But first, a disclaimer – DO NOT QUICKSELL YOUR CARDS FOR COINS. Yes, there are special cards with high quicksell values, but your average card isn’t worth quickselling. It has exponentially more worth either in the auction house or in a set.

3. The next step is to further filter these cards down so you’re seeing the newest and cheapest ones available so you can get the best deal and buy it before everyone else does. The cards shown to you in the auction house at any given time only show you 100 cards at a time. So often you have to use multiple filters to further refine your search, that way you know you’re seeing all the cards within that filter.


4. Now you’re seeing all of the Broncos’ offensive players with an OVR of 70-74 for sale. These are automatically listed in ascending order by the lowest Buy Now price. Take a look at the top rows of cards. They should all have roughly the same price. Make a mental note of this general range. Now change just the Team filter and see what the offensive, 70-74-rated cards are going for on other teams to verify this range. The majority of these should be in the same range, no matter the team, player, or position (with exceptions, of course).

Which ones should you buy? Since we’ve just established the current going rate for these cards, you’re looking for cards that can make you a profit AFTER TAX. When you sell a card, EA takes a 10 percent cut of what you sold it for. So selling a card for 1,000 coins actually nets you 900 coins when someone buys it. Therefore, I buy cards that are about 20 percent lower than the average going rate in order to both account for tax and to bake in my profit.

• E.g. Buy a card that’s normally going for 1,000 coins when you see a Buy Now price at 800 or lower (1,000 x .2 = 200. 1,000 – 200 = 800). But first, take a quick look around the page and make sure that the identical cards for that player are all priced at 1,000 or so. That way you know that 800 or less is actually a deal for that card, and not just the natural rate for a card that might happen to be selling for less than average.

It’s not much, but if you do this several times, you’ll have coins to reinvest for higher cards. Sometimes I might sell the card for slightly less to see if I can move it quickly or sell it for more than the average rate to see if I can get someone to bite. You can also check to see what it’s worth at MUThead.com. Sell your cards for a duration of one hour. If it doesn’t sell, don’t worry, throw it up again.

Of course, this is just the simplest method. You can also sort cards by pressing the right trigger and selecting Newest from the drop-down menu. This is helpful because by sorting by the newest and not just the cheapest cards on the page, you see more relative deals, not just the lowest prices. Overall, you want to see the newest cards (listed as 59 min) because it helps you gauge prices based on the assumption that a card that’s even a few minutes old probably would have already been bought by now if it really was a deal.

Play around with the sorting menus to find your own filters. Switch teams, investigate the different programs, sort by position or cap value, or whatever. You’re simply trying to find the newest cards that are selling below market value so you can flip them for market price or more. I highly suggest you check out MUThead.com for more info on cards. Here you can get a better sense of cards’ worth if you want to stalk individual cards, get a sense of the market for higher priced, more prestigious cards is (which is where you snipe the most lucrative deals), and a host of other tools to make you a better MUT auction house player.

The points themselves come as rewards while playing or by quick-selling other cards for training points, such as the ones you get from playing the Longshot: Homecoming story mode and its solo challenges. Cards of different tiers are worth various amounts of training points, so be careful before you buy a bunch of cards in the auction house in order to melt them down for training points.

I’m not worried about that right now, and I’m concentrating on maxing out a couple of cards just for fun. For example, try picking a few Power Up players from your favorite team and commit to upgrading them. Because they’re from your favorite team you’ll probably be less inclined to toss them aside when a newer and better player comes out at that position. You can downgrade a Power Up card of its training points, but since you only get half of them back as a penalty, I’m not going to do this.

Cards other than those specifically part of the Power Up program can be upgraded, including Legends and Team Captains. Furthermore, many cards can be assigned one or more chemistries in order to give an attribute boost to all the cards in your lineup using that chemistry. In the long run – and especially if you’re going to be playing competitively – you’re going to want to spend training points to unlock the right chems (like Secure Tackler and Gunslinger), so keep plugging away on those Solos and sets that award training points, and keep handy a few Elite cards or higher to sacrifice.