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I have read all the difficulties of not having the correct churchill tool to pull the rear hub. I have also read that it is not needed most of the time, at least to fix oil leaks. You can do that by pulling the whole axle. But I ran across this thread, of how to build your own puller, and decided to do so, just because it is a great concept, and sounds fun.

I have found a solution for separating the stubborn live axle rear hub and tapered axle shafts. I know most of us have wondered how to remove the stuck tapered hub after 50+ years without damage to the hub or axle. I’ve searched and looked into all the possibilities from machining a hub fixture with a forcing screw to sending the assembly out to have someone behind a curtain magically separate the assembly without damage.

I don’t have a machine shop around here (west of the washington metro area) that would make one without great expense. I also like finding solutions to mechanical problems myself.

I then took and cut the copper bar to produce a 1-1/2″ square piece and then trimmed the corners to fit loosely into the large nut, this will be what protects the end of the axle from damage during the force applied by the bolt (forcing screw). Lubricate the end of the forcing screw (bolt), bolt threads and the threads of the small nut with lithium grease.

Place the axle assy vertically, place the copper disc on the end of the axle, thread the nut assy with the large nut threading onto the external threads of the hub. The nut should thread on until tight, there will be a 3/16″ gap between the bottom of the nut and the 1st step of the hub. Install the forcing screw into the small nut and secure hand tight. Back of neck tattoos meaning I then reset the axle puller assy with the large nut in the vise and used a 2-1/4″ x 3/4″ drive impact socket (sunnex obtained from amazon $23.00) with a 1/2″-3/4″ adapter and a 1/2″ air impact wrench. I purchased a 3/4″ earthquake xt from HF but is is on backorder!

I tightened the bolt as tight as possible and then hit the end of the forcing screw with a large hammer, the 2nd hit had a tone change, I then further tightened and the forcing screw turned in 1/2 a turn and the axle was loose in the hub. I repeated this procedure 3 times with the same success, on each axle assy. The first assy had a damaged hub and was sacrificial, I purchased it from ebay for the axle shaft only, one of the originals has a damaged inner seal surface.

So the materials arrived yesterday. Unique mens tattoos I am in the middle of going through the front suspension now. I’ll get back to this, just wanted to document it. I did want to add that I ran this solution by an engineer friend of mine, and he said to be sure to grind a 45 degree bevel in the nut, and ensure the weld fillet is at least 1/4 inch on a side. Multiple passes on my 115 MIG welder are OK. Can’t wait to try it!

3. Remove clutch slave cylinder. With an old style oil filter, it would be easier to get to if you remove the filter first, but not impossible. Disconnected the hydraulic connection (upper end of hose) from above with a stubby end wrench. Climbed under, found one of the bolts and the spring missing! Removed the cotter pin, screw pin and pushrod (parts 55 and 57). Disconnected the other bolt, and pulled the slave out.

7. Carefully remove the spring and rubber cup. An interesting side note, the spring apparently doesn’t do anything, see this forum. At first I tried pulling on the spring, but the rubber cup was gummed in place. Lower back tattoo designs I found a small screwdriver was perfect for reaching in and removing a very gummy cup. The third picture below shows how it all fit together.

There is a bit of debate here. After cleaning with carb cleaner and a paper towel, the slave cylinder is not scored (doesn’t have horizontal scratches) inside, but I can feel a very slight ridge, and there is some discoloration. I don’t have internal micrometers to measure the wear (service manual gives specs). This site shows the measuring process.

Moss sells a classic gold slave for about $35, roadster factory an unnamed brand for the same amount. Apparently TRW bought girling, but does not make a TR3 slave. I have heard the reproductions aren’t all that great, and mine is a girling. So since I have a rebuild kit from the previous owner, if I can minimally hone it (less than 200 strokes at 400 grit) and get rid of the ridge, I will rebuild it. Awesome watercolor tattoos if it subsequently fails and leaks, then get a repro.

Research suggests a fine hone is best. Further, planning ahead, the diameter of the brake cylinders are .70 inch. The slave 1″ to find a hone small enough, and with fine stones, had to order one, no one had anything but medium (220 grit) stones. I ordered from autozone, both the hone and 400 grit stones. The hone is an OEM adjustable brake cylinder hone part 25032, with a 1/2 to 2 1/4 inch range, and 220 grit stones for $11.95. I also ordered the 400 grits stones, part number 2528, for $5.99.